Kerbo lid replacement guide
Moving lid
Make sure the new lid is longer or the same size as the old lid to be removed before starting.
Open the lid then find and remove the 3× screws near the centre with a “+” screwdriver. It may be useful to wedge the lid open near the centre while working with the screws.
If the channel has been formed of 2× sections, then there may be additional screws near the join between the lids.
Photo or diagram of the screw locations.
Use a rubber hammer or other soft-faced tool at the house-end to get the old lid moving so that you can pull it out of the roadside end of the base.
Hitting it too hard can break the lid.
Note — grit in the hinge slot can make the lid hard to move initially.
The hammer being used on the house-end.
Clear out the hinge-slot of the base, as dust and grit may have accumulated, to make it easier to slide in the new lid.
A small brush, air-gun or jet-washer is very useful for clearing the narrow hinge-slot in the base, or a cut-off thin piece of plastic that can enter the slot and move debris at the base is a useful tool.
Cut the new lid to match the size of the old lid. File the cut end if it's got any sharp bits of swarf, as this will be touched by the resident.
Possibly add some silicon lubricant on the new lid's vertical runner and locating T-shaped lug so that it will be easier to insert.
Adding it to the lug on the side of the new hinge.
Load the new lid into the base of the channel.
Close-up of the empty base section with the hole, the matching profile of the lid, and a section of lid partially in the channel.
If the channel is difficult to insert, consider repeating the slot-cleaning operation, or using the rubber-faced hammer to tap it gently into the base unit from the road side.
Hitting it too hard can break the lid.
Once the new lid is in the correct position, open the lid and screw in the original screws at the original locations where there should be counter-sunk holes.
If the screw heads were damaged, then use new screws — Michael has the spec.
The lid wedged open to expose the screw locations near the middle.
If you struggle to get the self-tapping screws in, then drill a pilot hole through the centre of each of the counter-sunk holes.
Small pilot drill, 2 to 2.5mm.
Fixed lid fitting
As above to step M7.
Once the fixed lid is inserted you cannot access the screws any more.
Drill a couple of vertical holes down through the flat section furthest from the hinge side.
Use epoxy in the holes before securing the channel with two plastic dowels into those holes, making sure the dowels are flush with the lid once inserted.
Grind any excess off if the dowels stand proud after the epoxy goes hard.
Fixed lid removal
Drill out the plastic dowels.
Then proceed from step M3 above.